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#001 1820s-1840s Corded Stays
The stay fastens and adjusts in the back with laces. A busk made of wood, like the one pictured at right, kept the front of the stay straight.
The fabric from which the originals were made is undyed fine cotton drill and medium-weight white linen.
The pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. All sizes require 1-1/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.
£10
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#003 1830s Full High Gown
The 1830's Full High Gown is copied from an original in The Hermitage Clothing Collection. The Hermitage, located in Ho-Ho-Kus, New Jersey is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
The Hermitage gown is dated to the 1830's by its rectangular skirt panels and dropped shoulders with gigot sleeves. In 1836 the gigot sleeves became unfashionable and were replaced with a sleeve that had a fullness below the elbow. Before 1836, fashion plates illustrated the hem at ankle length, but after 1836 the hem descended to the instep.
The gown closes in the back with four hooks and eyes; one at the neck and three on the waistband.
Sizes 10-14 require 7 1/4 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric; sizes 16-20 require 7 3/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.
£20
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#030: A Pair of Transition Stays
The #030 pattern was pulled, with permission, from the extant garment in the Danvers' Historical Society in Danvers, Massachusetts. The threads appear to be hand spun and the fabric appears to be hand woven of linen warp and cotton weft. The thread count is approximately 40 warp and 36 weft. The pieces are sewn together with linen thread, perhaps the thread used to weave the fabric. The stiffening is whalebone. While the front is fully-boned the back and sides are partially boned. Variations of the front boning from Conner Prairie Museum in Fishers, Indiana and The Chester County Historical Society in West Chester, Pennsylvania are included with the pattern.
Detailed Historical Notes explaining and documenting what is unique about a pair of transition stays are included in the pattern package.
This pattern is sized 8-14, 16-20, 22-26 in B, C and D cups. Sizes 8 through 14 require 1/2 Yd. fashion fabric and 2/3 Yd. lining; sizes 16 through 20 require 3/4 Yd. fashion fabric and 7/8 Yd. lining and sizes 22 through 26 require 7/8 Yd. of fashion fabric and 1 Yd. of lining.
£10
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#031: Circa 1796-1806 Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing Gown
The #031 pattern was pulled, with permission, from the extant garment in the Wayne County Historical Museum in Richmond, Indiana. The gown has no history. It is a day dress. Illustrated instructions for sewing the garment by hand are included, however, this is an easy garment to sew by machine.
The bodice conservatively cut yet it has the fashionable small back of the period. As a result of the small back the sleeves form the shoulders, creating a very comfortable fit. Drawstrings fasten the center front closed at the neck and waist. The bodice is lined. The front lining is loose from the armholes to center front. It crosses over and fastens at center front with straight pins. This front lining does not support the bust. It is to help hold the front closed. A corset is worn with this garment. Past Patterns' will be marketing a 1790's-1809 boned stay in 2003.
The pleated skirt is fullest in the back and flat in the front. A 1-1/2 inch crescent-shaped tuck at center front raises the skirt over the toes.
This pattern is sized 8-14, 16-20, 22-26 in B, C and D cups. Sizes 8 through 14 require 4-1/2 Yds.; sizes 16 through 20 require 5 Yds. and sizes 22 through 26 require 5-1/2 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.
£25
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#038: A Partially Boned Transition Stays
The #038 pattern was pulled, with permission, from the Connecticut Historical Society stay number 1963-42-4. The pattern package contains Past Patterns' Background Notes, published for the first time, reviewing differences among eighteenth-century stays, transition stays of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, and classic stays of the first quarter of the nineteenth century through the early twentieth century. The Background Notes also show detailed drawings of transition stays in museum and private collections, plus contemporary documentation dating the Connecticut Historical Society stay to between the late eighteenth century and 1820.
Purchase 45"-wide fabric in the following amounts: Sizes 8 - 14 require 7/8 yd.; sizes 16 - 20 require 1 yd.; sizes 22 - 26 require 1-1/8 yds.
£10
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#812: A Sheer Muslin Dress with Bishop Sleeves, Oversleeves & High Lining Circa 1858-1864
The #812 pattern was pulled, with permission, from an extant garment in the Christen Collection in Detroit, Michigan. The gown has no known provenance. It is a day dress. The pattern package contains Background Notes that describe sheer dresses, when they were worn and by whom, and the variety of linings used in sheer gowns. Sheer dress fabrics popular in the mid-nineteenth century are also described, with photographs and illustrations from Godey’s and Peterson’s magazines. Order this pattern in multi-sizes 8-26 with a B, C & D cup.
To make the dress with the original skirt panel widths using 45" wide fabric, purchase: 9-3/4 yds. for sizes 8-14, 10 yds. for sizes 16-20, and 10-5/8 yds. for sizes 22-26.
To make the dress with the full width of 45" wide fabric, purchase: 8 yds. for sizes 8-14, 8-1/16 yds. for sizes 16-20, and 8-1/3 yds. for sizes 22-26.
£20
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